Aged Gouda makes a cozy pasta for these damp, raw November evenings. The dish emerges from the oven steaming and fragrant, urging me to plunge a spoon into the bubbling gooey mass.

Though simple, its allure is roasted cherry tomatoes. Use whatever tomatoes you have on hand, but the tiny red and gold cherries in the market this time of year have the most spunk.

For pasta, I like orecchiette, or “little ears” in Italian; the concave shape is firm and springy and clings to the sauce. Cream cheese, whisked with milk, brings the dish together without having to make a heavier white sauce of flour and milk. Add a pinch of red pepper flakes and grated nutmeg to liven things up.

The aged Gouda, nutty and sharp, gives the dish its depth and finish. Tomatoes, roasted into a sticky, jammy-sweet-tart mess, add pops of color and tart-sweet taste. They can be prepared ahead then held in a covered jar in the refrigerator for several days. Double or triple the amount for a chunky paste to keep on hand and ready to twist into spaghetti, dollop on fried eggs, smear on focaccia, fold into an omelet or whisk into mayonnaise.

This simple recipe is what home cooks in Italy might call “cucina casalinga,” or home cooking. It’s simplicity at its best, with just a few simple ingredients. Rich and satisfying, it’s just the thing as night closes in and hungers rage.

For a cozy dinner, serve this with a crisp green salad and crusty bread.

Pasta With Roasted Cherry Tomatoes

Serves 4.

This serves two very hungry people, four if you’re including a crunchy green salad or steamed vegetables and crusty bread. But feel free to vary the amount; it will keep several days in the refrigerator and is easy to reheat. From Beth Dooley.

Kosher salt

1 lb. orecchiette pasta

2 c. whole milk

8 oz. cream cheese cut into 1-in. pieces

12 oz. aged Gouda, grated

3 tbsp. melted butter

Pinch red pepper flakes

Pinch grated nutmeg

Ground black pepper

1 pint cherry tomatoes, cut in half

Extra-virgin olive oil

Directions

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Drop the pasta into the water and stir. Cook the pasta until al dente and drain.

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment.

Pour the milk into a large pot, set over medium heat and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to low and stir in the cream cheese, whisking until blended. Add the Gouda and butter and continue cooking until smooth. Season with red pepper flakes, nutmeg, and salt and pepper. Add the drained pasta to the sauce and stir together. Cover and hold over low heat while the tomatoes roast.

Spread the tomatoes out on the baking sheet. Drizzle with the oil and sprinkle with salt. Roast until they are wrinkled and have shrunk and are very tender, about 15 minutes.

Transfer the pasta to an ovenproof serving dish and arrange the tomatoes on top. Bake until the pasta is hot and bubbly. Serve hot.

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Beth Dooley is the author of “The Perennial Kitchen.” Find her at bethdooleyskitchen.com.

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