JeanMarie Brownson: This risotto is the perfect way to cap off summer
Tomatoes and basil forever. Especially vine-ripened, locally grown heirloom tomatoes and homegrown basil. Paired in a salad, layered on crusty bread, scrambled with eggs, or just eaten out of hand over the sink, I never have enough.
Just when I thought I’d tried every possible combination, my uncle’s husband, a French chef, whips up a tomato risotto from giant heirloom tomatoes, imported rice, and a rich chicken stock. His tomatoes prove so ripe they simply melt into the broth, turning the risotto a luscious, deep red color.
My vegetarian version of that risotto swaps tomato puree and water for the chicken broth. Slightly less rich, but equally tomatoey, this risotto benefits from a homemade basil oil condiment and a shower of Parmesan.
For the best-textured risotto, seek out imported arborio or carnaroli rice. These medium-grain rices are high in starch, which helps achieve the desired creamy texture of perfectly cooked risotto.
I prefer large ripe tomatoes for this recipe due to their ratio of more flesh to skin. They also contain lots of liquid, so when chopping them, save the juices if possible for the risotto. If you prefer a richer risotto, swap 2 1/2 cups rich chicken broth in place of the tomato puree and water. White wine adds an interesting flavor to the risotto, but can be omitted; just use more water.
The only real trick to making risotto is to stay present for the cooking. You’ll want to stir the rice all the while as it slowly absorbs the liquid. A flat-bottomed wooden spoon is useful for stirring and helps prevent rice from sticking to the bottom of the pan. Be sure to taste the rice for texture (it should retain a little bite but not be either crunchy or mushy) as you add the tomato broth. Adjust the final seasoning with salt and pepper as needed.
To make this a vegan dish, simply omit the cheese or use a vegan Parmesan-style cheese.
Serve the risotto as a vegetarian main course with a green salad and crusty garlic bread. Or, serve it as a side dish to grilled chicken or fish. Extra basil oil can grace pasta, grilled eggplant or sliced tomatoes.
Tomato Risotto with Fresh Basil Oil
Makes 6 servings
1 cup canned or bottled tomato puree
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium-size sweet onion, finely chopped, about 3/4 cup
1 1/2 cups (10.5 ounces) arborio or carnaroli rice
1/2 cup dry white vermouth or dry white wine, such as sauvignon blanc
3 cups chopped ripe red heirloom tomatoes, 2 to 3 large (1 1/4 pounds total)
4 large cloves garlic, finely chopped
1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
Salt, freshly ground black pepper
1/4 to 1/3 cup small fresh basil leaves
1/2 cup finely shredded Parmesan, plus more for serving, optional
Fresh basil oil, see recipe
Sliced tomatoes, for garnish
Basil sprigs, for garnish
1. Mix tomato puree with 1 1/2 cups hot water in a bowl or container with a pour spout.
2 Heat olive oil in a large (4- to 5-quart) heavy-bottomed Dutch oven or saucepan over medium-high heat. Stir in onion. Cook and stir until softened, about 4 minutes.
3. Stir in the rice and continue to cook until onions are golden brown, about 2 minutes. Stir in wine and boil 1 minute. Stir in chopped tomatoes, garlic and pepper flakes. Cook and stir over medium-high heat until most of the liquid has evaporated, about 5 minutes. Season with 1/2 teaspoon salt and several grinds of fresh pepper.
4. Stir in 1/2 cup of the tomato puree liquid. Reduce heat to a gentle boil. Cook, stirring well with a wooden spoon every minute or so, until the liquid is almost absorbed, about 5 minutes.
5. When the liquid is absorbed, add another 1/2 cup of the tomato puree liquid. Continue to cook and stir for another 5 minutes. Keep adding tomato puree liquid, 1/2 cup at a time, until liquid is absorbed and rice is nearly tender to taste, 10 to 15 minutes more (20 to 25 minutes in total).
6. Turn off the heat, let stand covered for 5 minutes. Stir in basil leaves and 1/2 cup cheese. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
7 Transfer to a wide serving bowl. Drizzle a swirl of basil oil over all. Garnish with sliced tomatoes and basil sprigs. Serve immediately, passing cheese and basil oil for guests to add as they wish.
Fresh Basil Oil
Makes about 2/3 cup
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 cup (1 ounce) loosely packed basil leaves
1. Put oil and basil into a blender. Process until smooth. Transfer to a jar with a tight-fitting lid. Refrigerate up to several days. Use at room temperature.
(JeanMarie Brownson is a James Beard Award-winning author and the recipient of the IACP Cookbook Award for her latest cookbook, “Dinner at Home.” JeanMarie, a chef and authority on home cooking, Mexican cooking and specialty food, is one of the founding partners of Frontera Foods. She co-authored three cookbooks with chef Rick Bayless, including “Mexico: One Plate at a Time.” JeanMarie has enjoyed developing recipes and writing about food, travel and dining for more than four decades.)
©2025 JeanMarie Brownson. Distributed by Tribune Content Agency, LLC.
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