Every once in a while, I just need a burger. Nothing complicated, just a plump meat patty with a thick char that gives in to be tender and juicy.

Debate all you want about the type of the bun, whether to top with cheese and what condiments to use. But experts agree there are some non-negotiable rules:

Choose good meat from a trusted source. Whether using beef, turkey or lamb, ideally the meat is grass-fed with enough fat to keep it moist and flavorful. Look for a ratio between 80% to 85% lean meat to 20% to 15% fat. If you’re cooking with turkey, ground dark meat has more flavor and is moister than white meat.

Keep it cold. Be sure to keep the meat in the refrigerator until you’re ready to cook it. It’s best sizzled cold so the fat is solid when the patty hits the skillet.

Use a light touch when forming the patties. Be gentle if you’re seasoning the meat before shaping it into a loose patty. After they’re formed, sprinkle a little coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper on both sides of the patty to create a firm crust.

Always, always, always cook the burgers on a heavy cast-iron skillet or griddle. Don’t place patties directly on the grill. You can cook them outside if you like, heating the pan on the grill flame. The point is to allow the meat’s rendered fat to gather around the patties as they cook. The burgers will retain their juices instead of having them drip into the fire and cause flare-ups. Set the heat to medium-hot and begin with a pat of butter to get the process started.

To smash or not? The pros say smash. Use a heavy spatula (or an official smashing gizmo) to press down on the meat to create that crust. The burger will be ready to flip in about 3 minutes. That’s when to lay on the cheese, if using, before finishing cooking the burger through. If you are using cheese, be sure it melts and covers the meat. It doesn’t matter what kind of cheese; I prefer Cheddar for beef burgers, queso for turkey, and a mild feta for lamb (but I often skip the cheese to better taste the meat).

Let the type of meat inform the bun. The only rule is that the bun not overwhelm the burger. For a hamburger, brioche or soft pretzel buns will absorb the juices; turkey burgers work well on firmer buns or English muffins for sloppy toppings; and lamb burgers fit nicely into pita halves. Be sure the buns are ready to go when the burgers come off the griddle.

Condiments can be a contentious issue. Set out a selection and allow diners to choose their own: lettuce, tomatoes, ketchup, mustard, mayo, onions, pickles, salsa, tzatziki, crisp cukes are all popular.

The No. 1 rule for burgers, as with all things summer, is to relax, dig in and have fun!

Beef Burgers

Makes 4 burgers.

The classic hamburger is most often cooked to medium rare. If possible, ask a butcher for coarse ground chuck steak with at least 20% fat. Keep it in the refrigerator until ready to cook, and then sprinkle with coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper before the patties hit the griddle. From Beth Dooley.

2 lb. ground beef

Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 tbsp. unsalted butter or oil

4 slices Cheddar cheese, optional

4 brioche or pretzel or hamburger buns

Condiments such as lettuce, dill pickle slices, ketchup, for serving

Directions

Set a large cast-iron skillet or griddle over high to preheat.

Gently divide the ground beef into 4 pieces and lightly form these into thick patties. Season with salt and pepper.

Add the butter or oil to the skillet. Put the burgers into the skillet allowing plenty of space between them and cook for about 3 minutes; then smash them down with a spatula. Flip with a spatula and, if using cheese, place it on the meat.

Cook until the meat is cooked through, about 3 to 4 more minutes for medium rare. Remove and place on the buns and allow them to rest a few minutes before topping and serving.

Lamb Burgers

Makes 8 small patties.

Lamb is more flavorful than beef. It’s delicious on its own, simply spiced with salt and pepper, and is fabulous seasoned with warm spices — coriander, cumin, chili powder. Use a gentle hand when mixing the spices into the meat and forming them into small patties that fit into split pita bread or top lavash. From Beth Dooley.

2 lb. ground lamb

1 tsp. ground coriander

1 tsp. ground cumin

1 tsp. curry powder

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 tbsp. unsalted butter or oil

Suggested condiments: sliced cucumbers, sliced red pepper, tzatziki (see Cooking tip)

Directions

Set a large cast-iron skillet or griddle over high to preheat.

In a large bowl, gently break apart the lamb and work the coriander, cumin and curry powder in with your hands. Gently shape into 8 small patties and season both sides with salt and pepper.

Add the butter or oil to the skillet. Put the burgers into the skillet, allowing plenty of space between them, and cook for about 3 minutes; then smash them down with a spatula. Flip with a spatula and continue cooking until the meat is done, about 2 to 3 more minutes for medium.

Remove and place in the pita bread; allow the meat to rest a few minutes before topping and serving.

Cooking tip: To make tzatziki, in a medium bowl, stir together 1 cup grated cucumber, 1 cup plain whole milk yogurt, 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice, 1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint, and salt and pepper to taste.

Turkey Burgers

Makes 4 burgers.

Turkey burgers are leaner than beef or lamb burgers; add a shot of mayonnaise for moisture and flavor. Here they’re served with a side of spicy coleslaw and avocado. From Beth Dooley.

2 lb. ground turkey, mostly dark meat

2 tbsp. mayonnaise

2 tsp. ground chili pepper or Tajin

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 tbsp. unsalted butter or oil

Suggested condiments: avocado slices, salsa, spicy coleslaw (see Cooking tip)

Directions

Set a large cast-iron skillet or griddle over high to preheat.

In a large bowl, gently break apart the turkey meat and work in the mayonnaise and chili pepper with your hands. Gently shape into 4 patties and season both sides with salt and pepper.

Add the butter or oil to the skillet. Put the burgers into the skillet, allowing plenty of space between them, and cook for about 3 minutes; then smash them down with a spatula. Flip with a spatula and continue cooking until the meat is done, about 3 to 4 more minutes.

Cooking tip: To make spicy coleslaw, in a medium bowl, toss together 1 cup shredded cabbage, ½ cup shredded carrots and a small chopped green onion. In a small bowl, whisk together 3 tablespoons mayonnaise, 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard, 1 tablespoon fresh lime juice, ¼ teaspoon chili powder or Tajin (or more to taste), salt and pepper. Toss this in with the cabbage mixture until coated; adjust the seasonings to taste.

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Beth Dooley is the author of “The Perennial Kitchen.” Find her at bethdooleyskitchen.com.

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