Discover Often Overlooked Lyon

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By Georgeanne Brennan

Lyon is part of France's designated Valley of Gastronomy, a 385-mile-long culinary route from Dijon through vineyards, past the inns and villages of Burgundy and Beaujolais to Lyon then south along the Rhone Valley to Marseille. Lyon, located on two hills, or monts, at the confluence of the Saone and Rhone rivers was, like Marseille and Dijon, a Roman outpost.

The Villa Maia, where I stayed on a recent trip to Lyon, is located on the upper slopes of Fourviere, one of the hills with spectacular views over the city. From the hotel, it was an easy two-minute walk to the stunning Roman amphitheater built into the slopes of the hill. The amphitheater is part of an extensive Roman site that includes the Lugdunum Museum. An entry to the museum also provides entry to the ruins, where visitors can wander undisturbed for as long as they want.

Crowning the hill, less than a 10-minute walk away, is the Basilica of Notre Dame de Fourviere, a massive white stone structure with carved facades, statues and delicate spires that was built toward the end of the 19th century, though it appears much older because of its mix of Gothic and other styles of architecture.

In addition to stunning vistas and the proximity to historic sites, I liked the Villa Maia's location for another reason: It is only a short walk from the hotel lobby to the funicular, which swiftly delivered me and a carload of other passengers into Vieux Lyon, the must-see heart of the city, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It spreads from the foot of Fourviere to the neighboring hill, Croix-Rousse, once home of the silk industry.

Although parts of Vieux Lyon, the Old City, date from the fourth century, it had really flourished during the Renaissance, the heyday of the famous silkworks and the river trade that made Lyon one of the richest cities in France at that time. Wandering the narrow, cobbled streets and poking my head into traboules, the city's famous covered passageways, I found it easy to imagine the bustling silk workers moving their precious rolls of fabric from one warehouse to another, protected from the elements.

In addition to Roman ruins, Renaissance palaces and hidden passages, Lyon is even more famous for its food. The city is home to bouchons, so-called because in the old days these taverns were marked with a bundle of straw over the door -- a bouchon de paille. This signaled the tavern as a place where a thirsty horseman could stop for a glass or two of Beaujolais and some local food. In addition to its bouchons were traditional Lyonnais foods such as Andouillette, Saucisson en Brioche and Quenelles with Sauce Nantua -- delicate fish dumplings made of pike, covered in a creamy sauce made with crayfish, Lyon is considered the gastronomic center of France. The city is garlanded with Michelin stars, fine patisseries, chocolatiers and perhaps the grandest food hall in all of France, Les Halles Paul Bocuse.

Les Halles Paul Bocuse is a vast indoor market named for the famous chef, Paul Bocuse. Here you'll find stall after stall of Meilleurs Ouvriers de France, a prestigious title given to masters of all trades, from shoemakers to bread-bakers and butchers. I loved wandering the aisles, impossibly dreaming of eating and cooking everything. To compensate, I stopped at one of the seafood bars inside the market, ordered a dozen oysters and a glass of Beaujolais blanc, then purchased a pastry or two to snack on later. I also bought as much chocolate, tea, cheeses and spices as I could fit into my suitcase.

From Les Halles, it is a 30-minute walk along the scenic Saone embankment to Le Confluence, a new neighborhood built at the confluences of the Soane and Rhone rivers. I found it thrilling to stand on the very tip of the land, watching these two powerful rivers becoming one in the mighty Rhone, knowing it would spread into a vast delta just west of Marseille before joining the Mediterranean. The neighborhood is dotted with riverside cafes and restaurants as well as contemporary architecture.

With all the fine-dining opportunities in Lyon, it's hard to choose, but a favorite of mine is Les Loges, a Michelin-starred restaurant within the inner courtyard of elegantly restored Renaissance buildings of the Hotel Cour des Loges. The ingredients are locally sourced, and the technique impeccable. On my last visit, among the fascinating array of flavors and presentations, a mushroom dish captivated me. Wild mushrooms, watercress and hazelnuts foraged from the hills of Lyon combined to create flavors that were earthy, rich and woodsy, bringing together in each bite the feeling of being in a forest. My dessert, a magical confection of pear, sorrel, lemon balm, fig and black currants with chocolate, still has me wondering how it was made.

Lyon, lying just north of midway between Dijon and Marseille on the A7, the Autoroute de Soleil, is often bypassed, as I have done in the past. Now I know better. Lyon is worth more than a quick stop on the way south.

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WHEN YOU GO

Villa Maia: villa-maia.com/en

Lugdunum Museum and Roman Theaters: lugdunum.grandlyon.com/en

Bouchon Daniel et Denise -- several locations: danieletdenise.fr/de

Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse: halles-de-lyon-paulbocuse.com

Les Loges Restaurant and Cour des Loges Hotel: courdesloges.com/en/gastronomic-restaurant-loges.html

Georgeanne Brennan is a freelance writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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