The recent spate of unexpected warm weather — how is it 60 degrees in February in Pittsburgh? — has got me thinking about spring, and I’ll bet it eased some of the blues that build up over a cold and dreary winter for you, too.

There’s a certain joy in watching the snow melt away, even if it means kids (and husbands) track mud into the house while you’re running out of time to finish all the household repairs and DIY projects you were sure you’d get to while cooped up inside.

It’s especially exciting in the kitchen. Spring marks a step toward lighter eating, with fresh leafy greens, aromatic herbs and tender veggies like asparagus, baby artichokes and sugar snap peas commandeering the produce section.

We’re still a few weeks away from the official first day of spring on March 20, but that doesn’t mean we can’t make an early transition to its seasonal eating with a veggie-packed dinner that makes good use of inexpensive produce section staples that are (thankfully) available any time of year — bagged baby spinach, fresh parsley and basil, leeks and boxed rigatoni.

The result is a bright and flavorful entree that boasts all the fresh and vibrant flavors of an herby green goddess dressing, only it’s tossed with pasta instead of spooned over a bowl of salad greens.

The classic mayo-based dressing is thought to have been created in the 1920s to honor actor George Arliss, who starred in William Archer’s play “The Green Goddess.” Named for its striking color, it also can be used as a dip for a raw vegetable platter or as a base for a jazzy potato salad.

Here, the savory, pesto-like sauce made with spinach, basil, parsley, lemon and two kinds of onions is bound not with mayonnaise or sour cream, but a blend of extra-virgin olive oil, heavy cream and starchy pasta water. Fresh ricotta mixed with grated Parmesan and kissed with lemon zest is spooned on top for an elegant, creamy garnish.

The best part? The whole thing comes together in about the same time it takes to boil and drain a pot of noodles. And its bright green hue is nothing short of fabulous.

Cold weather and/or another snowstorm or two may still be on the horizon — Punxsutawney Phil saw his shadow on Feb. 2, after all, setting the stage for six more weeks of winter. But that doesn’t mean we can’t eat light and fresh as we dream of our spring gardens.

Cook’s note: Leeks are notorious for hiding sand and dirt between layers, so be sure to swish them around in a bowl of cold water after slicing them into rings to release the grit. You’ll want to use only the white and light-green part of the stalk; save the tough, dark green tops for soups and stews.

I used rigatoni pasta because its textured exterior is great for holding sauces, but you can also substitute a corkscrew pasta. I served it warm for dinner, but it also can be served chilled as a side dish.

Green Goddess Pasta

PG tested

For sauce

½ cup olive oil, divided

½ onion, roughly chopped (a scant 1 cup)

1 leek, sliced into rings and rinsed thoroughly

Kosher salt

1 pound mezzi rigatoni or other tubed pasta

3 cups baby spinach leaves

1 cup fresh basil leaves

½ cup fresh parsley leaves

Zest and juice of 1 lemon

1 garlic clove, minced

½ cup heavy cream

2 tablespoons minced fresh mint

For ricotta topping

1 cup ricotta

¼ cup whole milk or cream

¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese

Pinch of salt

Zest of 1 lemon

In large saute pan set over medium heat, warm 1 tablespoon olive oil until sizzling.

Add chopped onion, leeks and a generous pinch of salt. Cook, stirring often, until onions are translucent, about 2-3 minutes. Remove from heat and allow to cool to room temperature.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a rolling boil. Add pasta and cook according to package directions until al dente, around 10 minutes. Reserve 1 cup of pasta water for later use, drain and add to skillet with the sauteed onions and leeks.

While pasta is cooking, prepare ricotta topping. In bowl, whisk together ricotta, milk or cream, grated Parmesan, a pinch of salt and lemon zest. Set aside.

To a blender, add remaining olive oil, spinach, basil, parsley, lemon juice and zest, minced garlic, heavy cream, mint and ½ cup of the reserved pasta water. If the sauce seems too thick, add a little more pasta water 1 tablespoon at a time.

Pour sauce over the pasta/onion mixture in the skillet, and using a spatula, toss and turn until pasta is completely covered in sauce. Warm over medium heat for 2 minutes.

To serve, spoon pasta into a warmed shallow bowl, and add dollops of whipped ricotta.

Serves 4.

— Gretchen McKay

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