Working at home, mostly seated at the kitchen table, the overstuffed pantry beckons me to solve the age-old problem of what to have for dinner.

More often than not, tinned fish comes to the rescue. Perhaps it’s the smoked salmon we fell in love with on an Alaskan trip, or the twenty flavors of sardines we encountered in a shop in Portugal or the delicate not-too-salty anchovies from Spain’s Basque region. Usually, it’s the stockpile of the feel-good, wild-caught tuna from our local Whole Foods that gets the attention.

No matter how many versions of tuna-noodle casserole I’ve made or been served, the dish remains a standard in the weekday repertoire. It’s economical, easy to make, feeds a bunch and offers comfort. Most of all, it’s delicious.

These days I rarely combine tuna and noodles with canned soup into a casserole. Instead, I’m craving a bowl full of al dente pasta and tender tuna flecked with onion and a zesty kick. White beans boost the protein content and spinach provides iron and green beauty. A little mascarpone cheese or cream adds a smidgeon of creaminess.

For the tuna, save the water-packed tins for lunch or a high-protein snack after a workout. For dinner, select wild-caught tuna packed in oil. You won’t be sorry, as it’s far less fishy-tasting and has a more pleasing texture.

Likewise, buy the best pasta you have access to. I look for imported pastas made with the highest quality semolina flour. Bronze-cut pasta, such as the De Cecco brand or Barilla’s Al Bronzo line have great texture. The bronze dies used to make the pasta leave a bit of a rough surface texture which means a better cling for the sauce. Whatever pasta you use, don’t set the timer and forget about it. Rather, stir often and taste a noodle occasionally for doneness. Stop the cooking short of soft — look for a tiny bit of bite left in the center of the noodle, al dente, as the Italians and good cooks say.

No fresh spinach in the house? No worries. Toss in a handful of frozen peas or edamame instead. Chopped bottled roasted red peppers, or drained diced fire-roasted tomatoes swap in nicely for the green chiles.

A crunchy topping, such as crushed potato chips improves most tuna noodle combos. We welcome a generous sprinkle of kettle-style potato chips or French-fried onions as a final garnish here too!

Linguine with Tuna, White Beans and Spinach

Makes 4 to 6 servings

2 tablespoons olive oil

4 green onions, trimmed, chopped OR ½ cup chopped sweet onion

2 or 3 cloves garlic, crushed

1 can (15.5 ounces) white beans, such as cannellini, drained

1 can (4 ounces) diced roasted green chiles, drained OR 1 small poblano pepper, roasted, peeled, diced

3 cans (5 ounces each) wild-caught tuna in olive oil, undrained

Salt

1 box (14 to 16 ounces) linguine noodles

1 bag (5 ounces) spinach, about 4 cups

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/4 to 1/3 cup mascarpone cheese, creme fraiche or heavy whipping cream

Crumbled kettle-style potato chips or French-fried onions, optional

Crushed red pepper flakes or red pepper hot sauce, for serving, optional

1. Heat olive oil in a large nonstick skillet. Add onions and saute 2 minutes. Add garlic and cook 1 minute. Add beans and chiles; cook 2 minutes. Stir in tuna. Saute until hot, about 2 minutes. (Mixture can be made up to 30 minutes in advance.)

2. Meanwhile, heat a large pot of salted water over high heat to boil. Add linguine and cook, stirring often and tasting a noodle occasionally, until al dente, about 12 minutes. Scoop out and save 1/2 up of the cooking water. Then drain the noodles and return to the pot.

3. Reheat tuna mixture if necessary, then stir in mascarpone and 1/4 cup of the reserved cooking water. Cook until very hot, about 2 minutes. Stir in spinach and black pepper. Cook and stir just until spinach wilts. Season to taste with salt, usually about 1/2 teaspoon. Remove from heat.

4. Add tuna mixture to drained pasta and toss. Add the remaining 1/4 cooking water as needed to loosen things up a bit. Serve hot. Garnish with crumbled chips, if desired. Pass red pepper flakes or hot sauce.

(JeanMarie Brownson is a James Beard Award-winning author and the recipient of the IACP Cookbook Award for her latest cookbook, “Dinner at Home.” JeanMarie, a chef and authority on home cooking, Mexican cooking and specialty food, is one of the founding partners of Frontera Foods. She co-authored three cookbooks with chef Rick Bayless, including “Mexico: One Plate at a Time.” JeanMarie has enjoyed developing recipes and writing about food, travel and dining for more than four decades.)

©2024 JeanMarie Brownson. Distributed by Tribune Content Agency, LLC.